XTS3000 Model 1 to Model 3 Upgrade (Hardware Components)
v1.1 01/21/2007
Introduction
This guide covers the steps and components necessary to upgrade an XTS3000 Model 1 to a Model 3.
The purpose here is twofold: First, to save yourself spending money on a full housing kit, with electronics, which can
go for upwards of $150-$200 just by itself. Second, since there were two different types of top electronics flex
connectors during the lifetime of the XTS3000, you ensure that you end up with the right type of connector for your
radio, simply by reusing the existing electronics.
Note 1: The new housing plastic only kits from don't come with the Astro and Motorola stickers on them. Good luck
ordering them from Motorola, individually. You can try and reuse the old ones from your old housing, if you're carefull
and patient.
Note 2: This guide does not cover the software side of the house. That info - either find it, or find someone who knows
how do to it - don't ask me about it.
Without further ado...
Step 1: Here's the parts you will need to order:
1585506D07
Model III Housing
7505293Z03
Keypad, Model III
NTN8311B
Keypad, Flex Assy
5105385Y19
LCD Display Module
7505336Z01
LCD Locator Pad
6881083C90
XTS Detailed Service Manual
The detailed service manual is a godsend to have, it has exploded parts diagrams, part numbers, and a fairly detailed
description on how to get the radio apart to insert a secure module, which will at least help you get the front housing
off. I highly recommend you review the detailed service manual before you do anything.
Step 2: Remove old front housing from radio.
Figure 1: Step 2
Disconnect the battery, antenna, and accessory or side cover. Using a small flathead screwdriver, follow the guide in
the detailed service manual. Basically, you prise the bottom of the housing away from the metal chassis of the radio,
until it pops off the two catches and you can disconnect the front housing electronics connector.
Step 3: Remove existing channel/volume electronics from old housing.
Figure 2: Step 3
Remove the channel and volume knob rubber covers, and then the channel and volume knob inserts. Note, these are a pain
to remove, much prying is required, you may want to order new ones, see the service manual for part numbers. Also be
aware of the small plastic lightpipe for the channel selector - it's easy for it to fly off and get lost.
Remove the screw holding the speaker bracket in, and remove the speaker bracket.
If you look up into the housing, you'll see the white plastic block that encases the electronics. First, gently release
the accessory connector flex and the side button flex. Then, using a small tool, pry gently at one side of the case and
then the other, to release the plastic catches that hold the white housing electronics encasement into the housing.
Step 4: Place electronics into the new housing.
Pretty much the opposite of Step 3. One thing to note, the new housing may come with a replacement metal bracket for the
back of the accessory connector flex. If it did so, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. Instructions and
all necessary bits are included with the housing.
Figure 3: Steps 5-9
Step 5: Remove keypad and display flex brackets.
There are two brackets on each side of the exposed controller board, above the contact pads. They serve two purposes:
First, to help hold the controller board sandwitched into the radio, and secondly, in Model 2 and Model 3 radios, to
hold the keypad and display flex connectors in place against the controller board.
Use a knife or very thin screwdriver to pop these off the chassis, and carefully unhook them from the controller board.
On Model 1 radios, there is a square piece of clear plastic covering the controller board between and beneath the
brackets. Once you've removed the brackets, remove this clear plastic and set aside (you won't need it later unless you
decide to reverse the model upgrade).
Step 6: Place display into locator pad.
As in Figure 3, note that the rubber locator pad surrounds the edge of the display module, and that the display flex
protrudes through a slit in one edge of the locator pad. Gently work the flex through the slit, and then the pad around
the display.
Figure 4: Flex retainer clip closeup
Note: Make sure that the "fingers" in the retainers stay on top of the flex. If they get underneath the flex, it
may short out on the contacts!
Step 7: Clip display flex onto controller board.
As in Figure 3, place the display face down on top of the controller board, and align the display flex above the
contacts on the left hand of the controller board. Note that the display flex has one little contact tab that protrudes
past the edge of the controller board. This needs to be folded down against past the left edge of the controller board.
Note: Don't worry about folding it yourself, just make sure when you put the display flex clip back on it gets
folded underneath the clip.
Hook the display flex bracket through the display flex back into the controller board. Double check that the display
flex contacts are positioned over the controller board pads, and then gently press down on the clip until you feel it
engage on the two catches on the chassis.
Step 8: Clip keypad flex onto controller board.
As in Figure 3, place the keypad over the shield covering the lower part of the controller board. The back of the keypad
itself has a layer of foam with adhesive on the back.
Note: Do NOT remove the adhesive backing yet.
There are notches in the foam to accomodate the shield's locking clips. Note this when aligning the keypad.
Hook the keypad flex bracket through the keypad flex back into the controller board. Double check that the keypad flex
contacts are positioned over the controller board pads, and then gently press down on the clip until you feel it engage
on the one catch on the chassis.
Step 9: Fold display down and align on tabs.
As in Figure 3, note the display locator tabs. There are spaces for these tabs in the display locator pad. Gently fold
the display over until it's aligned above the tabs, and then gently press it down, guiding the tabs into the locator
pad.
Step 10: Reassemble radio and test keypad and display.
At this point, put the radio back together, and power it up. If all went well, it will beep, the keypad backlight will
light up, and the display should display "SELF TEST". There it will stay until you take care of the software side of the
house. Once you do that, you should be able to put the radio into service mode, and then bang on all the keys and see
that they respond correctly. See the service manual for more info on service mode.
Step 11: Dissassemble radio, and permanently adhese keypad.
Once you're satisfied that everything is working, remove the front housing, lift up the keypad, remove the adhesive
backing, and carefully place the keypad back down onto the shield, compressing the keypad firmly.
Step 12: Grab a drink of your choice, you're done!
